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Winterizing 496 mag- should I fog? (Read 6193 times)
Sep 5th, 2012 at 2:22pm

Ron54   Offline
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  Thought I would get some opinions here, I know there is lots of info out there on the net but the more knowledge the better.
  I always winterized my previous boat with a 350 mag (sea water cooled) by attaching the muffs, warming it up so thermostat was open then using a tank full of of pink stuff (4 or 5 gallons).  I would usually get pink out the exhaust after a couple of gallons but let it run for awhile til gone just to be safe.  Never had a problem but have heard some will then open the drains and let the pink stuff drain.  Always thought it would be better to leave in as the stuff I buy states it has anti corrosive additive (Prestone propylene glycol) Any thoughts on this?

  Also would run the engine quite a bit on last outing after putting correct amount of CRC brand marine fuel stabilizer in
tank.  This brand states it has additive to prevent corrosion to engine components and does appear to be a little "oily".  Never fogged the motor, was told this was a no no for MPI fuel injection.  Manual for the 496 mag talks about mixing a "fogging mixture" in a six gallon tank, disconnecting the boat tank and running this through the motor.  Makes sense but I am prohibited from taking fuel on our dock and boat stays in the lift through the winter.  Also read about just adding a little fuel stabilizer and 2 cycle oil to the fuel filter and running this the last minute or so.  I could do that during the last phase of letting the muffs pull in the pink stuff.  Again opinions welcome.

  I also check the speedometer opening on front of drive and let out a little drive lube to be sure no water in it.  Store the drive almost all the way down, has to be up just a bit so it is not touching the lake. 

Thanks for any thoughts and anything I am missing.
 
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Reply #1 - Sep 5th, 2012 at 7:48pm

boater   Offline
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Dont think they would notice a 1 Gal plastic jug in a canvas work carrier.
EFI ,TPI and MPI are fogged with a remote tank with the additives mixed in.
1 run this mix untill smoking heavily
2 shut off engine, open all drains, probe openings to confirm draining
3 reinstall drain plugs
4 remove large hose from Therm stat housing and pour A/F into block untill it exists housing, reinstall hose.
5 remove manifold hoses and pour A/F in untill it comes out the exaust.
6 remove batteries and have a beer.
 
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Reply #2 - Sep 6th, 2012 at 11:13pm

Ron54   Offline
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Yep, thats what I think I will do, have access to a 2 gal outboard motor tank and will use that,  just reduce the formula to use a gallon of gas, should not take more than that to run for five or ten minutes.
 
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Reply #3 - Sep 7th, 2012 at 6:10am

Fun Times   Offline
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Since your engine already is a closed cooled system with antifreeze in the engine block, thermostat area, etc, you'll want to winterize the heat exchanger, exhaust manifolds, sea water pump and all lines adjacent to sea water side of the cooling system due to they are still susceptible to freezing if not properly drained or flushed with RV antifreeze.

I don't think you'll need to worry about this Ron, but in some cases if the engine was ran in harsh type places with grasses, salt, mud, etc then just relying on the built in drain system could stand a chance of failing by not draining all the water out of the sea water side of the cooling system due to a build up in the actuator, check valves, waterlines, etc.

One of the easiest ways of winterizing the mercruiser 496 cooling accessories would be if you were able to attach a tank of antifreeze to your water intake system. Something like in the link below is one way. Since you're not adding coolent to the engine block, etc it would work pretty good. And reading online shows many success stories with the merc 496 doing it this way.

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Do you run in freshwater? If so the antifreeze is mainly recommended to help prevent corrosion, etc.

As long as you're sure the water has drained for about 5 minutes you may be ok to leave out the antifreeze due to air does not freeze. Wink

Just a few different ideas to think about is all. Smiley

Good luck.
 

In the long run, Using OEM parts may just cost you less money!
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Reply #4 - Sep 7th, 2012 at 10:22am

Ron54   Offline
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Thanks for the video, that is exactly how I winterized my 350 mag (raw water cooled) in my previous boat.  Also left the Prestone propylene glycol in (did not drain out) as it states it has a proprietary additive to prevent rust and corrosion to metal.  Always warmed the 350 mag fully so thermostat was open and would circulate all through the block.  Am I right that  with the closed cooling on this motor the thermostat is on the closed side (the block where the Dex Cool circulates) so not a concern about being fully warmed up?  Also is running the fogging mix from a remote tank the best way to do it?  The boat will be on a covered dock in a lift in a very clean lake for about 15 weeks (Table Rock Lake in Missouri).  As far as freezing protection I am using the -50 Prestone RV/Marine stuff, the average low in January is 23 and the all time record low was -19 F.  The water never freezes except in the very shallow areas and even when lake is low there is 10 feet of water under my boat.  The bottom of the keel sits about 18 inches above the water.
 
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Reply #5 - Sep 8th, 2012 at 4:52pm

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Ron54 wrote on Sep 7th, 2012 at 10:22am:
Am I right that with the closed cooling on this motor, the thermostat is on the closed side (the block where the Dex Cool circulates) so not a concern about being fully warmed up? 

Also is running the fogging mix from a remote tank the best way to do it?  The boat will be on a covered dock in a lift in a very clean lake for about 15 weeks (Table Rock Lake in Missouri).  As far as freezing protection I am using the -50 Prestone RV/Marine stuff, the average low in January is 23 and the all time record low was -19 F.  The water never freezes except in the very shallow areas and even when lake is low there is 10 feet of water under my boat.  The bottom of the keel sits about 18 inches above the water. 
Yes, you are correct with this engine, the Dex Cool is separate from the sea water side. the block and thermostat is Dex Cooled. Wink

Table Rock is a beautiful lake, i spent about three weeks there when i was around 10 years old. my friends mom had a house that backed up to the lake.

For some reason i can remember there seemed to be lots of bass boats with outboards on that lake back then, still like that today?

You should be good with the -50 Prestone RV/Marine coolant.

Fogging the fuel system either way would work fine, it's just using the remote tank is the recommended way of doing it. The hardest part would be removing the fuel inlet hose off the engine fitting, that can be hard to do sometimes without fear of damaging the fuel hose.

Being you have an 06 engine model, you should have the newer Gen 3 cool fuel system, it's the big fuel tank module next to or should i say in the way of the impeller housing. Tongue

So you have to pull the top cover off of the fuel module to gain access to the filter area. Keep in mind, you have two filters inside the fuel module totaling around $85.00 for both.

35-892665 --filter $37.00
35-866171A01 ----filter $49.92
 

In the long run, Using OEM parts may just cost you less money!
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Reply #6 - Sep 9th, 2012 at 10:07pm

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Thanks, I can actually access the fuel line where it attaches to the gas tank, may just disconnect there and attach to remote tank with fogging mix.  Have both filters already, wow they are pricey as you say, will put the new ones in next spring after I clear the fogging mix out. 

Table Rock is still as beautiful as you remember, Corps of Engineers lake so they run a tight ship there.  Keeps things clean and uncluttered.  Still lots of bass boats, fishing is excellent still I think they have one of the major tournaments there next year, I am just an occasional fisherman. 

Thanks again.
 
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Reply #7 - Apr 8th, 2013 at 1:39pm

Ron54   Offline
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Just to update with some feedback for future ref by others and to say thanks again for the free advice.

  I did fog the engine last November using the remote fuel tank method, easy just converted the numbers from a six gallon tank to one gallon per advice.  Ran it for ten minutes after the engine was warmed up, barely any smoke but the mix had to go in the motor only fuel source it could use!  Guess I was expecting more smoke.  Just fired the boat up last week and took it out for a run.  Started right up and ran great.  Let it cool and next day changed the fuel filters which was easy. Glad I did.      

   The boat was put in service in June, 2006 by previous owner who obviously never changed the filter.  Only 133 hrs when I got it but Mercruiser recommends annual change.  Cannister filter in the boat "looked" ok some dark areas but dated in Jan. of 06.  The cup filter at the bottom looked nasty, greenish stuff that is now black after drying out, can't even see direct sunlight through the bottom.

  Question is with the cup filter at the bottom nearly totally blocked any issues I need to be concerned with?  Boat ran Ok before changing but wondering if this was a problem.

Lesson learned that even though I was told the boat had been "maintained" every year that without records just do the maintenance anyway.  Guessing previous owner did not want to pay the bucks for the filter change.

Thanks again. 
 
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Reply #8 - Apr 8th, 2013 at 2:46pm

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Ron54 wrote on Apr 8th, 2013 at 1:39pm:
Question is with the cup filter at the bottom nearly totally blocked any issues I need to be concerned with?  Boat ran Ok before changing but wondering if this was a problem.
Thanks for the update! Smiley

The cup filter being like that sounds about normal to me, Nothing to be concerned with that i'm aware of. Smiley

Happy Boating! Wink Smiley 
 

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Reply #9 - Apr 8th, 2013 at 10:58pm

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sounds like you have a filter/sep for an outboard with the see thru bottom or drain bowls  those are a no-no for I/O applications. use the regular spin on type.
 
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Reply #10 - Apr 9th, 2013 at 12:32am

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boater wrote on Apr 8th, 2013 at 10:58pm:
sounds like you have a filter/sep for an outboard with the see thru bottom or drain bowls  those are a no-no for I/O applications. use the regular spin on type.
Hi Boater, he has the newer style Merc Gen 3 cool fuel module. It consists of a disk type filter, and a canister type filter. Item numbers 21 & 26. Wink He's safe! Smiley

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In the long run, Using OEM parts may just cost you less money!
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Reply #11 - Apr 9th, 2013 at 9:44am

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Guess thats why I belong with the points, condensors, and carbs.Sometimes this new stuff makes me wonder if its better.
 
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Reply #12 - Apr 10th, 2013 at 12:33am

Ron54   Offline
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Not sure if it's better but sure a lot more expensive!!
 
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